Custom Shirt or Altered Shirt

A shirt that almost fits is one of the most common things brought in for alteration, because shirt sizing is built around a handful of standard measurements and most people fall somewhere between them. Knowing what can be fixed on a shirt you already own, and when it makes more sense to start fresh with a custom shirt, saves time either way and keeps you from paying to alter something that was never going to fit right no matter how much work went into it.

Collar gap

Collar gap is the space that opens up at the back of the neck when a shirt collar is sized for a larger neck than yours, or cut for a different neck shape. A small gap can often be taken in at the back of the collar and the yoke. A larger gap, especially combined with a shirt that is loose everywhere else, usually means the shirt is a full size too big rather than a simple collar problem, and that is a harder fix that may not be worth the cost compared to starting over.

Sleeve length

Sleeve length is one of the more reliable shirt alterations. Shortening a sleeve that runs long is a common job and usually straightforward, whether the cuff needs to be removed and reattached or the length is taken from higher up the sleeve depending on the cuff style. Lengthening a sleeve is more limited, since it depends on how much fabric was left inside the cuff, the same seam allowance limit that applies to any garment, and most manufactured shirts leave very little to work with there.

Slimming the body of a shirt

A shirt that fits in the shoulders and collar but is baggy through the chest and waist can usually be taken in along the side seams to follow the body more closely. This is a common request and works well as long as the shoulders already fit, since shoulder width on a shirt is one of the harder things to change once the garment is already cut and sewn.

Shirt length and hem

A shirt meant to be tucked in usually needs more length than one meant to be worn untucked, and a shirt bought with one style in mind does not always work for the other. Shortening the body of a shirt intended for untucked wear is a straightforward adjustment, but it changes the shirt permanently, so it is worth being sure which way you actually plan to wear it before that hem gets shortened for good.

• Good candidates for altering an existing shirt: sleeve length, minor collar gap, taking in the body at the side seams
• Signs a shirt may not be worth altering: shoulders that are visibly too wide or narrow, a collar gap larger than a small taper can fix
• Custom shirt territory: a body type standard sizing consistently misses, a specific fabric or detail you want built in from the start

When a custom shirt makes more sense

If you find yourself altering every shirt you buy in the same places every time, a custom shirt built to your own measurements from the start removes that repeat cost. Gregory's Fine Tailoring builds custom shirts to order, dress shirts for business and special occasions as well as shirts for daily office wear, cut to fit from the beginning rather than adjusted after the fact, so the collar, sleeve, and body all match your measurements at once instead of being patched together.

Caring for a shirt between wears

Whether the shirt is altered or custom made, a few habits keep it fitting well for longer. Let a shirt air out and cool down before hanging it back in the closet rather than folding it straight off your body. Use a proper shirt hanger with rounded shoulders instead of a wire hanger, which can distort the shoulder seam over time. Wash on a gentler cycle and lower heat than the collar and cuffs might suggest they can handle, since high heat is what breaks down fabric and interfacing fastest, especially around the collar points where interfacing gives a shirt its shape.

If you are not sure which route makes sense for a shirt you already own, bring it by 18 Arcadia Ave in Waltham and it can be looked at directly, or call (617) 482-1111 to ask what a custom shirt build would involve.